Cover Story
The Art of Fragrance
In conversation with Nick Smart of Agence De Parfum
4 Minute Read
Fragrance is a mood-altering force to be reckoned with. As we sift through our (sometimes monotonous) daily regimes in this volatile year, the fleeting moments of quotidien happiness tend to stem from small, sensory pleasures. It’s the intoxicating waft of a freshly baked focaccia from the kitchen, fledgling herbs in your new outdoor veggie patch, a freshly-cut bunch of billowing blooms, a ritualised spritz of a decadent perfume, or a glorious candle burning at bathtime.
Our most primitive sense is smell. It has the propensity to dictate roughly 75% of our daily emotions, allowing us to form opinions, vivid memories and perceptions. We actively choose to douse ourselves in fragrances, plot them throughout our homes (from bedside table festooning to desk adornment) and admire their ineffable, spellbinding nature.
Today, Harrolds sits down with a modern, native maestro of perfumery, Nick Smart. Director of Libertine Parfumerie and fragrance fantasy-land Agence de Parfum in Sydney, Nick is a perfume aficionado.
Our most primitive sense is smell. It has the propensity to dictate roughly 75% of our daily emotions, allowing us to form opinions, vivid memories and perceptions.
We decipher the meaning of fragrance, the nostalgia it summons, the scent forecast for future perfume trends, and how to cultivate an utterly captivating space via clever home sprucing for those seeking inspiration in a rather lacklustre state of lockdown, or the lucky ones hoping to woo guests as they welcome people back in for dinner parties and spring soirees. For Nick, fragrance is the ultimate accessory. “You could wear the best suit or the smartest ensemble of casual clothing, but without fragrance, the outfit is incomplete,” he tells Harrolds. “Smelling good boosts confidence, lowers stress, and invigorates you for the day or evening ahead (in lockdown or otherwise). Fragrance is a head-turner and inspires those around you as well,” he swoons.
The fragrance circuit is seeing a new-wave of perfume paramours this season. When asked what’s hot and why, Nick turns to the iconic perfume house of Amouage, hailing their global bestseller, Interlude Man.
“This fragrance captures the essence of Omani Haute Parfumerie, and their 3 key exports from there: Silver Frankincense, Rockrose and Myrrh. This proprietary blend is called “The Amouade” which incorporates a trio of key, exceptional raw materials at an unprecedented 40% concentration.”
Looking ahead to next season, Nick predicts the Harrolds customer will favour Rich Oriental Ouds, (Interlude Man), Clive Christian (X Feminine) Fruity, Floral Oriental. He recommends the classic Aventus for Him and Her duo to be worn the wrists and body contours of the most on-trend fragrance paramours.
AMOUAGE – Roses grown in abundance on the slopes of the Jebel Akhdar
AMOUAGE – Roses grown in abundance on the slopes of the Jebel Akhdar
The art of cultivating a new perfume is a tumultuous, inspiring and awe-inducing process of love and labour. For fragrance romantics pining to know more about the architecture of fragrance (like how a designer brings fashion from ideation to the runway), Nick shared the lowdown with us.
“Artisanal Fragrance making always starts with a brief, mood board that begins to bring the story to life. Once the fragrance mood has been decided upon, a perfumer is selected to create the fragrance, based on the inspiration. Many hours of blending, selecting A1 grade raw materials, testing dry downs and evolutions and orchestrations. This process can take a perfumer into the many thousands of attempts before the perfumer feels that the interpretation has been captured. Next, come bottle and packaging designs that finally, completes the brief, and brings the fragrance to life.”
Right now, Nick has Aventus by Creed, Rock Rose by Clive Christian and Epic Man by Amouage on high rotation in his fragrance stash. When probed on which brands to watch in the perfume limelight, he deems Amouage and Clive Christian to be at the forefront of innovation, due to the high concentration of A1 raw material, the depth of silage and lasting power on the skin (up to 18 hours).
Fragrance inspires confidence and wellbeing
In a 2020 new-world context, the confined of social isolation and turbulent work-from-home regimes, fragrance brings an evocative indulgence to an otherwise heavy heart.
“Fragrance inspires confidence and wellbeing,” says Nick.
“If you smell good, it makes you feel and look good as well. Creating ambient scent environments makes the home and work synergy far more pleasurable. Cire Trudon Salta (Argentinian Grapefruit) is perfect to create an energised, uplifting work environment. Tests conducted in the 1970s in Manhattan offices found that citrus oils dispersed through air conditioning systems decreased typing errors by 20% and kept staff energised well beyond the 3pm doldrums.”
So, what are some of the most tactful ways to integrate fragrance into the home?
Nick explains home fragrance is very much about understanding the space and area you are wanting to infuse with scent. It’s sort of akin to playing to your features and accentuating your assets when you drape and style your body in wonderful, personalised and considered fashion.
“Large spaces and studies require robust scents, like Cire Trudon Ernesto (Tobacco/Leather) or Cyrnos (Mediterranean Fig/Sea Salt notes),” Nick explains.“Kitchens require fresh and invigorating scents that cut through cooking odours. Cire Trudon Abd el Kader (Moroccan Mint Tea) is exceptional, especially while cooking meats. Bathrooms and intimate spaces like bedrooms require fresh citrus or delicate floral scents – think Cire Trudon Salta (Argentinian Grapefruit). It’s perfect for the bathroom. Ourika (Moroccan Iris) is a divinely powdery, delicate scent dreamt up for bedrooms or intimate spaces.”
