Cover Story
Getting to the crux of Chris Ran Lin
The Melbourne-based menswear label with a natural fabrics bias.
3 Minute Read
Catapulted into the fashion industry by masters in Fashion Design at RMIT University, Chris Ran Lin has swiftly become one of the most noteworthy new-era names in local men’s knitwear.
Chris brings fabrication and intricate detailing to the forefront of modern menswear with his eponymous label. The independent designer beats to his own drum, crafting experimental garments and unexpected offerings to the modern man’s wardrobe.
With a modus operandi to reinvent and reimagine the parameters in which we wear wool, Chris constructs ready-to-wear pieces that pull at the stitch-work of tradition.
Here, we crosscheck reputation with reality, and see what the man behind the threads has to say about his notorious affair with fabrics.
Crafting experimental garments and unexpected offerings to the modern man’s wardrobe
Chris Ran Lin, @chrisranlin
How did Chris Ran Lin begin? Walk us through the origins story.
I wasn’t starting my label on purpose. I began my studio around 2013, and worked on some creative projects simultaneously. Since I published my first project, I’ve received orders from private clients. This is how Chris Ran Lin started. Then, in late 2015, Chris Ran Lin (the label) started commercially and neatly coincided with when I finished my MA Fashion Design at RMIT.
Tell us about your philosophy when it comes to fabrication and working with natural fibers.
I always love to feel the fabrication before I try the garment on. That’s just how I shop for my own clothes, and this reflects how I work on my designs. Fabrication is the most important part in my design process. Natural fibers have this certain hand-feel and character that are such a joy to work with.
Why do you have such a preoccupation with wool?
Although I love all kinds of materials, I have always had a special bias towards natural fabric and wool in particular. As one of the oldest textile materials in human history, and with such a luxury feeling, wool is something so beyond ordinary to me. There are always unlimited possibilities while creating from wool – pure, blend, coloring, structuring, fine, coarse – all these characteristics allow the end garment to be both beautiful and comfortable. I think I love the challenge of interrupting a wool garment in a contemporary way.
How does architecture influence your designs?
The structure, texture and engineering side of architecture design inspires my creative process. I always like to think about how I can work with the positive and negative space on a garment, to challenge the possibility of its construction.
Cable Crew Knit
Cable Crew Knit
Cable Crew Knit
Cable Crew Knit
What (or who) else do you draw on for new-season inspiration?
The new collection I am working on is a reflection of my feelings throughout 2020. It has restructured our general living activities and human connections. I take it as a concept of ending and beginning that can be translated into (and expressed through) the design process.
What’s changed the most for your label since its inception in 2013?
I guess the biggest change is my consideration of seasons, as I’m deadling with both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. But I don’t like to put a seasonal boundary on design. I truly believe that people should buy the clothes they like to wear, whenever they feel like wearing them
Why did you choose to run a studio from Melbourne?
I have been living here for 16 years now, so I call Melbourne home. I think the reason I choose here is because of the culture, architecture and people of the city. It is very inspirational.
An outfit from your current collection that you’d throw on for occasion dressing?
For hotter days, one of the pieces I really like is the organza knit shirt. And then for colder climes, the Chris Ran Lin signature mohair cardigan is a must.
Feel the ingenious fabrication of Chris Ran Lin for yourself at Harrolds, online or in store.
