Cover Story
Tailoring is our talisman. An AW21 suit snapshot with Buyer Alireza Shakoori
Dressing for escapism. Dressing for freedom. Dressing to reclaim some rock and roll.
3 Minute Read
Let’s face it, stay-at-home orders only make us pine for great outfittings and outings more. For something tangible to look forward to, Harrolds Buyer Alireza Shakoori is about to take us through the new-in tailoring repertoire for AW21 at Harrolds.
It’s a bit rock and roll, a lot of ton-sur-ton and a standout proclivity for texture and rebellion. When we’re longing to embrace the joy (and art) of dressing up again, it seems the frivolity and exaggeration of tailoring grows tenfold. As we begrudgingly don our trackies at home in some parts of Australia, the thought of a Mick-Jagger-esque pink suit from Tom Ford feels intoxicating, transportive and liberating.
Alireza has good news: the fundamental functionality of suits – to dress up decadently for special dalliances – is returning, led by an international renaissance of great eventwear and party-dressing after our mass exodus from corporate life.
The fundamental functionality of suits is returning
Tell us a bit about the buying process for AW21. What kind of trends, aesthetic sensibilities or brand initiatives were on your radar when selecting new arrivals?
Among the brands we explored, escapism was the main theme. Whether it was going to the woods and searching for solace in Lardini’s cool and light-hearted suiting or going for a rock and roll vinyl vibe with Tom Ford’s latest compositions.
Tailoring powerhouses like Brioni and Caruso also focused on pieces to be worn in the countryside and touring around the country. For me, the focus was around the functionality of the garments, textures, and their compatibility to be utilised in different combinations.
What can we expect from Tom Ford this season?
Tom Ford put a lot of focus on the late 60’s and 70’s: a time when rock music was evolving rapidly with giants like Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger. We’ll see various textures from jersey to velvet. There’s leather, denim, wool and everything in between. It is a festival of bold and sleek silhouettes. Just look at the petrol velvet bomber jacket inspired by Jimi Hendrix’s iconic blue number during his performance with Eric Clapton of Cream in 1966.
Trousers are slimmer with frogmouth pockets with easy access functionality to use the pockets. We’ll see jersey shirts and cotton blends with loose and flowy draping. There is also a show stopping pale pink suit in the collection that reminds me of Mick Jagger’s iconic wedding suit (designed by Tommy Nutter in the 70s).
And how about Brioni?
Brioni’s strength is the know-how and craftsmanship in menswear. The brand is openly showcasing their savoir faire by offering a super 150s silk jacket with soft construction and natural shoulders. Brioni has access to the most exclusive bolts of fabrics from the best mills and offers a variety of double split fabrics in coats and bomber jackets.
Utility and function are the two main concerns at hand, with soft shoulders and a comfortable fit comprising Brioni’s key hallmarks. Under Norbert Stumpf’s minimalism, Brioni continues to deliver a variety of modern, elegant, and functional garments.
Harrolds Buyer, Alireza Shakoori
Harrolds Buyer, Alireza Shakoori
If you had to pick out the ultimate head-to-toe tailoring ensemble for an evening out in Melbourne, what would it be?
I would opt for a brown ton-sur-ton outfit consisting of a double-breasted velvet jacket with frogmouth pocket pants, a button down jersey shirt and alligator embossed loafers. They’d all come from Tom Ford’s main AW21 collection.
What kind of trends have you noticed changing (or being revisited) in tailoring this year?
The biggest change is the functionality of a suit, which I welcome with open arms. It’s fantastic to see the suits produced with their original function. That is, to be worn on special occasions like weddings, balls and glamorous events as opposed to day-to-day workwear in corporate contexts.
