Cover Story
Old crafts, new tricks: Inside Wynn Hamlyn’s Pre Fall 21 Collection
“Telling a story that beauty and utility need not be mutually exclusive.”
4 Minute Read
Wynn Hamlyn has become one of the cornerstone labels for a modern standard of quality in fashion. The New Zealand brand is an ever-evolving ode to fastidious fabrication and considerate materials sourcing, culminating in menswear and womenswear (not that you necessarily have to adhere to just one genre) that will stand the test of time.
While the clothing founder Wynn Crawshaw crafts puts manufacturing first, wearability and idiosyncrasy still reign supreme in the final artworks. You’ll know the brand’s structural hallmarks by now—keyhole cutouts, spliced shapes, thick and indulgent wools, and a playful colour palette.
Here, we catch up with Wynn on the future of the label, and its new frontier of Pre Fall 2021. Functionality and form prevail, from fresh interpretations of nostalgic styles (like the halter neck or the spray jacket), to fabrics typically reserved for traditional sportswear.
Reimagination and inspired dressing is just the antidote we ordered in a time of unrelenting monotony…
Reimagination and inspired dressing is just the antidote we ordered
WYNN HAMLYN – Beaded Halter Dress
WYNN HAMLYN – White Bungee Jacket
WYNN HAMLYN – Beaded Halter Dress
WYNN HAMLYN – White Bungee Jacket
What did you envisage for PF21? What does it represent now? Is there a contrast between your vision for a collection and what actually culminates?
Pre Fall 2021 was envisaged with our concept of “New Craft”: a connection to the work of the hand, the artist and the craftsperson. I was reminiscing about the pre – internet era and a time pre-mass-production, thinking about elements of technical innovation and bringing them into the present day. For example, we’ve used performance sportswear detailing and fabrication in unity with old craft, telling a story that beauty and utility need not be mutually exclusive.
How are you seeking to consistently diversify each drop from Wynn Hamlyn?
Every season, we’re looking at elements of craft and innovation from different periods and we’re using the same lens on how we can bring these into the present day.
Favourite garment from PF 21 and why so?
I like the beaded halter dress. We worked with a local craftsperson to lathe the beads, each one is made individually by hand. I love small touches on garments, and the project was really fun
Talk us through your fabrication considerations for the collection.
In keeping with the theme of the collection (old intertwined with new), there are lots of traditional and natural fibres in the range as well as modern fabrications. There is plenty of wool, which is typical for us, as well as 100% cotton shirting and denim. We’ve also used modern fabrics taken from sportswear, like tencel blends and nylon. The beads I mentioned before are Native New Zealand Rimu.
There’s an incredible spray-jacket piece for Man. How did you tackle the humble waterproofer?
This was an awesome piece to work on. I think we just wanted to take this traditional piece and show it in a new light. The theme of traversing sportswear and entering fashion (and vice versa) was very strong in the collection and this piece is the epitome of that.
Who was behind the creative direction and production for your campaign shoot(s)? What was the brief?
We’ve been working with Karla Clarke and Jake Terrey for our last few collections. They’re a fantastic team and have a vision that follows suit with ours.
Assuming you’re in lockdown along with a lot of us right now (albeit being across the ditch), what are you wearing day-to-day? What does ‘getting dressed’ look like for you?
We’ve also entered a lockdown here in New Zealand. Getting dressed and feeling good for the day often looks like a pair of jeans or trousers and a comfy knit. I love the weight of the Moss Stitch Sweater and Portal Sweater—it feels like the perfect thing to wear when you just want to feel good at home.
What was the design process behind that incredible zipped pullover with the blue trim and tapestry of floral motifs? What’s it made from?
Our Morris Jacquard Sweater. The sweater references the Arts and Craft movement in transcribing Morris’ Little Flower through jacquard machine knit. Its central medallion is pierced by a cyanotype-blue heat-sealed sportswear zip. It’s made from 80% Wool and 20% Nylon. We include the nylon element for longevity purposes, preventing the yarn from pilling to ensure it stays in your wardrobe forever.
An unexpected way to style something from PF 21 that you’d like to encourage?
The Bungee Jacket. Wear it with trousers or jeans and under jackets. It’s lightweight and adds an interesting textural element to an outfit.
What other Australian or New Zealand designer has influenced this collection in some way?
This collection was co-designed by Glen Prentice. Glen is an accomplished international designer, back in NZ now after some years in London and New York.
WYNN HAMLYN – White Bungee Jacket
WYNN HAMLYN – Looped Ribbed Knit Blue Cardigan
WYNN HAMLYN – White Bungee Jacket
WYNN HAMLYN – Looped Ribbed Knit Blue Cardigan
Is there anything fashion-related or otherwise you’ve consumed lately that you consider fundamental reading/viewing/listening to for the Harrolds customer?
Viewing: White Lotus and watching The Wire for the first time
Listening: Isaih Rashad, The House is Burning
And lastly, please explain the foreign concept of a knitted jumper with holes across the chest. How does it somehow work?
Yes, it’s a bit different! I was thinking about the functionality of wearing a scarf and having it styled in a certain way, and then the relationship this has with your sweater. The idea first came about from past seasons when we had lots of silk scarfs that intertwined through garments. This was the winter version of that idea.
Explore the latest from Wynn Hamlyn at Harrolds now, here.
