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Feng Chen Wang on the fundamentals of designing for ‘freedom’

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Feng Chen Wang on the fundamentals of designing for ‘freedom’

It’s no longer a man’s world in international fashion design, with female creatives forging their own interpretation of menswear and gender-fluid garments for the modern wearer. Leading the charge is Feng Chen Wang: debatably one of the coolest eponymous masculine labels in the world.

Fusing Chinese heritage with philosophical takes on functionality, Feng Chen Wang has produced a deconstructed rendition of menswear as we once knew it. That is, her creations are built on contradictions and the dichotomous relationship between ‘undone put-togetherness’. It’s streetwear, it’s luxury-wear, it’s an evening out, or it’s a well-dressed night in.

My garments reflect the different pieces and layers of my perspective and life

From checking in on her recent Paris Fashion Week debut, to rehashing formative college days, we’re catching up with the freedom-driven designer on fashion at its finest. Here is Feng Chen Wang in her most formidable era.

Firstly, where in the world are you right now and what has your last week entailed (in both work and life)?

I’ve just returned to Shanghai this week after spending four months at our studio in London, off the back of Paris Fashion Week in June. It felt like a homecoming; returning to London, re-connecting with our global community physically, finding inspiration from new and old places and visiting my alma mater. I will now be heavily involved in the design process ahead of our Paris Fashion Week show in January.

What does your partnership with Harrolds Australia represent for Feng Chen Wang?

Harrolds represents one of Australia’s finest luxury shopping destinations. I am excited for Australia to further discover Feng Chen Wang and for us to connect with the Australian fashion market. It’s also a perfect match for us to reach out beyond the Chinese diaspora, living down under with our design ethos and stories.

You studied at the prestigious Royal College of Art, London. How did your time there shape who you are as a designer today?

My time at RCA contributed to one of the most important phases in my life in terms of understanding and self-discovery as a person, and as a fashion designer in an honest and authentic manner. I was able translate my emotions and storytelling through my design language and ethos, and connect with a community that shares the same philosophy and experience with the label.

Did you always intend to work in fashion and envisage yourself as a designer when you were younger, or were there competing aspirations?

Growing up, I have also wanted to be an artist or an architect. I think being a fashion designer was a way for me to express my art and communicate inspiration and thoughts. Having said that, I see myself as a multidisciplinary artist, projects like the Nike Lab installations and Piaggio collaboration offer a platform to explore through a lens beyond fashion.

Why was it important to you to craft unisex, genderless designs, as opposed to producing gender-binary garments?

As a female fashion designer studying and creating a menswear collection, it comes naturally for me to combine traditional masculine designs towards gender fluid styles. I think about how I am going to wear all my designs as a woman. Functionality in menswear is very enticing but I want to break beyond that gender consideration, to reconstruct and deconstruct traditional notions in a future modern way. To that end, my garments are for everyone to wear, regardless of size, style, age or gender.

FENG CHEN WANG

FENG CHEN WANG

The former Instagram bio for Feng Chen Wang reads: “Opposites co-existing through dreams, visions and reality.” What does this sentiment mean for you in the context of your designs? Please translate it for us.

That line sums up our Spring Summer 22 collection, which was inspired by the blurring of opposites that shouldn’t, but do co-exist harmoniously together – the perfect fusion of the yin and the yang. The phoenix print also reiterates the breaking down of gender binary, of structures holding us back, of being able to break free.

In what ways does Chinese culture and your heritage play a role in Feng Chen Wang’s garment construction (or deconstruction)?

I think my design language has always reflected my life experiences and inspiration, growing up in China, moving to London, New York, among other cities and countries and meeting different people. There is an introspective space for delineating traditional Chinese artisanship with non-gender binary and disruptive designs. I would say my garments reflect the different pieces and layers of my perspective and life, breaking through boundaries and norms, being reconstructed and restructured through my design language.

Where can we find you when you’re recalibrating or recharging creative energy?

You can find me at museums, galleries and exhibitions across Europe, and street markets and shops which I enjoy looking at people and speaking with them. In China, I tend to explore natural places, from mountains to villages across countryside.

My inspiration tends to come from my personal stories and experiences

Who (or what) do you turn to when lacking inspiration and ideas?

My inspiration tends to come from my personal stories and experiences, people whom I’ve met, which I never seem to run out of! I also tend to find inspiration and creativity when I am going through challenges or obstacles in life.

Once your garments go out into the world and wider wardrobes, they’re open to the interpretation and styling sensibilities of the wearer? What do you hope Feng Chen Wang radiates on the street, or at an event, or in the office? What energy or aesthetic do you think it serves no matter where (or by whom) it is worn?

I’ve always visualised freedom with my garments and those wearing them, my garments are not limited by age or gender. I would imagine those who wear Feng Chen Wang to be able to find confidence in expressing their own style and personality. You can style them in streetwear, luxury, menswear, womenswear, new seasons and old, all of the above.

What materials or textures are you working with right now? How are they sourced and are they sustainable?

Our bamboo bags uses bamboo from my hometown in Fujian Province. Bamboo is a highly sustainable plant that requires no pesticides or chemicals to harvest, it self-regenerates from its own roots and doesn’t need to be replanted, minimising water consumption and labour.

Our Rework collection up-cycles past Feng Chen Wang garments and fabrics and combines the concept of recycle and redesign to reduce our impact on the environment. We also uses end of line/dead stock fabric from mills in some of our collections.

Selected fabric from our collection uses ‘Lanyinhuabu’ a plant-based starch resist dye, mixing soya paste, lime chalk and natural indigo dye called ‘Dian Qing Ran’ which is extracted from locally-grown plants.

This technique is unique to China’s Fujian Provence and is now only practiced by a few elderly artisans. Our aim is to continue such traditional craftsmanship for generations to come.

We are also constantly exploring new innovations and materials for our present and future collections.

What was a pinch-me moment for you in the last year of work?

This year has been full of challenges, victories and learning points for me and the label. In February, I was invited to design the flag bearers’ uniform for the Winter Olympics Opening Ceremony in Beijing alongside the Fall Winter 22 collection during London Fashion Week. That was a big pinch-me moment and I remain humbly honoured by the experience.

This June, we showed our Spring Summer 2023 collection in Paris Fashion Week. We faced logistical challenges in moving the team to Paris for the show from London and Shanghai, and showed an amazing presentation as well as a teaser of our upcoming collaboration with Canada Goose.

And how do you see your label evolving in the next year?

Our Paris Fashion Week show in January is something we’re excited for and the move to Paris official calendar will propel further engagement with the international buyers, press and wider community. We’re looking to expand into lifestyle and developing our womenswear collection.

Express your truest self in Feng Chen Wang. Explore the collection now at Harrolds online or in-store.

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