Harrolds’ SS23 Menswear Brands Announced: As Told by Junior Buyer Julia Miller
Names to know, from Kiko Kostadinov to Strateas Carlucci
If you’re the fashion coveteur that seeks out the most exclusive international names in luxury, you’ll know a Harrolds seasonal buying report is your ticket to a front row preview of cult new arrivals in our wardrobe.
Our talented menswear buying team has scoured the runways and global trends to discern the absolute pinnacle of fashion labels (longstanding and emerging) for the style-driven man. Here, Junior Buyer Julia Miller observes some of the most significant SS23 newcomer labels, and her personal selections from our impending drops.
From the local non-binary expressionism of Strateas Carlucci to the likes of international fashion royalty Vivienne Westwood, the future of modern menswear is an ever-evolving fusion of masculinity and femininity for everyone. Prepare yourself (and your events calendar) for the latest and greatest forces in fashion, as well as the rationale behind Harrolds’ buying selections, as told by Julia.
The future of modern menswear is an ever-evolving fusion of masculinity and femininity for everyone
Tell us a bit about the buying process for SS23. What kind of trends, aesthetic sensibilities or brand initiatives were on your radar when selecting new arrivals?
When approaching a new season, we always start the process by reviewing our wins and losses from prior seasons which helps us to make sure we’re focusing our attention in the right areas.
As each brand is so different there’s no ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach, and collections can change dramatically each season based on what the designer’s vision is. We generally aim to cover all our best sellers while also incorporating any standout pieces or highlights from the runway and ensuring the overall mood of the collection is represented.
How is genderless design important in your selection?
I think there has always been an element of non-conformity with contemporary fashion and streetwear (from brands like Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens), but over the past few seasons we’ve been increasingly adding pieces that wouldn’t be considered traditionally masculine. For example, a Thom Browne skirt or that Martine Rose baby tee. The lines are becoming increasingly blurred and people are shopping without necessarily caring which department it comes from, so we’re also widening size curves where we can.
What are some debut brands arriving to the Harrolds menswear trove?
A personal favourite is the Parisian label Y/Project, helmed by creative director Glenn Martens and famed for their Y2K Trashy style, which is so nostalgic for me as a kid who grew up in the early 2000s. I think Y/Project have really come into their stride over the past year and this is their strongest collection yet, so it’s great to be launching with them on a high note.Some other amazing brands to keep an eye out for this season are Martine Rose, Kiko Kostadinov, Comme Des Garçons Shirt, Purple, Pearls Before Swine, Vivienne Westwood (Jewellery) and Strateas Carlucci.
And how about returning brands? Whose latest collections have enthralled you from ongoing brands?
The Amiri main collection was a standout this season. The runway debuted under the hot Paris sun in June and featured a soft colour palette with sky blues, pastel pinks and cream, flowing silhouettes and a more polished look than we have seen from the brand before. This was paired with Pegasus motifs, a diamante encrusted bomber jacket and a new silhouette of sneaker (the MA-1), creating an almost dream-like mood that channeled Mike Amiri’s inspiration for the collection perfectly — that being: ‘nothing is impossible’. The collection will arrive in Harrolds stores between February-April 2023.
Who is a legacy brand reimagining their offering this year?
This season we will see the first full collection of Mattieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta come to life in-store, after his debut halfway through last season. Since his appointment as creative director, Blazy has been widely praised for his new take on elevated casual comfort, using highly technical fabrics and exaggerated silhouettes to add interest to what would traditionally be called basic. In SS23, Blazy has cemented his new vision for Bottega. Expect to see dramatic footwear, lace-up detailing on garments, luxuriously crafted leather goods and an expertly tailored suit with an almost motion-like silhouette.
What notable trends are you most excited about for SS23?
This season there was an overarching theme of reimagined wardrobe staples and elevated, comfortable pieces. Now that the world has returned back into a relatively normal routine post-COVID, the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction and we’re seeing a regained energy around relaxed tailoring and shirting and leather footwear such as loafers, boots and lace-up derbys. Denim-on-denim was another undeniable trend for SS23 and featured heavily in almost every collection we saw.
What do you think are some of the most-hyped arrivals in this buy, and what particular pieces are of cult-status?
The latest Nike x Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus collaboration sneaker for the season is particularly strong; these will definitely be a highlight. The Balmain ‘Unicorn’ sneakers are new for us in SS23 and are wildly popular internationally, and Acne Studios will also be launching a new range of patent black bags which are bound to take off. We’ll also be receiving a new drop of colours in the Salomon XT-6 and XT-4 OG which are quickly becoming a cult favourite.
What accessories are at the very top of your wish list this summer? Vivienne Westwood will surely be making a cameo here!
Absolutely! We have some amazing Vivienne Westwood rings coming in soon that I’ll definitely be grabbing. I also have my eyes on the Y-Project denim tote bag, new Marine Serre ‘Moonwalk’ sneakers, and the silver ‘Splice Bracelet’ from our new jewellery brand Pearls Before Swine. It’s such a beautiful piece.
And how about everyday off-duty attire?
Some of my favourite pieces coming in for the season are the Martine Rose cropped track jacket, the Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus black and yellow stripe pants, and the Alexander McQueen black rivet hoodie.
Officially impatient, intrigued and in a hurry to secure your favourite SS23 featured labels? Stay up to date with all new arrival menswear brands as they unfold online at https://www.harrolds.com.au/
